Husband and I recently made our triumphant return from our incredible honeymoon to Finnish Lapland. This blog post is both a recap of our trip, and a loose itinerary for any of you who may be interested in visiting a winter wonderland in the future. Full disclosure, we worked with a travel agent on this trip (mostly because I didn’t have the capacity to plan a wedding, work full time, and figure out the logistics of navigating the Arctic Circle all at the same time). For the most part, the agency and its counterparts did a great job, but if I were to do the trip over again, I would definitely tweak some things. Those tweaks will be included in this post as well so you can decide for yourself what the best approach would be for your trip.
Our trip started with a lengthy travel day (night? Day and night?) We flew out of Dulles on IcelandAir, and had a quick layover in Reykjavik. From there, we flew another 3.5 hours to Helsinki, which is located in southern Finland. After another (somewhat longer) layover there, we boarded our third and final flight from Helsinki to Rovaniemi. That flight was only about an hour and a half, but on the back end of 12 hours of airports and layovers, we were certainly ready to be horizontal. That said, I think it was a good strategy to get the bulk of the travel out of the way and slowly work our way backward throughout the trip, which is what we did.
Our first stop in Lapland was in the city of Rovaniemi, which is right on the line of the Arctic Circle. The flight to Rovaniemi was FULL of children, probably because it was early December and there is a massive Santa Claus Village several kilometers outside of town. If you are sensitive to… noise and chaos, keep that in mind before booking this flight this time of year.
Rovaniemi itself is a small city located at the intersection of the Kemijoki and Ounasjoki Rivers. We stayed at the Scandic Pohjanhovi Hotel, which has a fantastic view of those rivers. Our room was spacious and the bed was comfortable, and we even had a little note and some candies welcoming us for our honeymoon, but if you book a room here, don’t expect luxury. The hotel could definitely use some updating (see: the Cold War-era elevator near the hotel restaurant), but it was perfectly fine for the night we were there.
After settling in at the hotel, Husband and I bundled up to take a walk through the Rovaniemi town center. As was fitting for the gateway to the Santa’s Home, it was bedecked with Christmas lights. There were also displays made from ice, such as an Ice Nativity and an Ice Throne for photo ops. Basically, it was sparkly and magical, and we loved it.
We stopped for dinner at Gustav Kitchen and Bar, which is situated right on the main drag. The interior is warm and cozy, and there are a couple “snow globes” outside available to reserve as well if you’re looking for a more unique experience. The meal started with complimentary sourdough bread, and we ordered a cheese plate to accompany it. While all three of the cheese provided were good, my favorite was a truffle manchego that I would do unspeakable things to find stateside. For my main course I ordered Arctic Char in a Lobster Sauce, and friends, it was incredible. I’m not usually a huge fish person, but this dish was cooked perfectly. The fish was flaky, the sauce was creamy, and it was packed with flavor. Finally, for dessert, we ordered a date cake with cloudberry sorbet. Normally, I’m a chocolate gal through and through, but this cake was indulgent and delicious. I would highly recommend visiting Gustav, but make sure you have a reservation and a little bit of patience with the service.
The next morning we set off towards Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort, and here’s where I would recommend a deviation from our itinerary. Unbeknownst to us, Kakslauttanen was actually about 2.5 hours north of Rovaniemi. Fortunately, our travel agent had booked us a private car, so it was a comfortable ride, but I wish I had known that Ivalo Airport is only about 30 minutes away from the resort. I’m not entirely sure why we flew into Rovaniemi as opposed to Ivalo, but to save yourself 5 hours roundtrip in a car, make sure to check on flight availability to Ivalo. The Resort offers shuttles to and from the airport as well, so it’s not complicated to get to.
Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort is nestled outside the town of Saariselka. It is the truest representation of a “winter wonderland” that I have ever experienced. The resort is pretty expansive, so be prepared to hike a bit to your accommodations (don’t worry, they provide sleds to help with your luggage). Note that snow boots are a MUST in winter. While there are defined paths, they are almost all completely snow-covered.
We stayed in one of their Kelo Igloos for 2 nights. The Kelo Igloos are essentially cabin/igloo hybrids. They have full bathrooms, a private sauna, a king bed inside the cabin, and adjustable beds out in under the igloo. It was a good amount of space, and definitely wasn’t cold. The glass in the igloo is heated so the snow and ice melts off, giving you a clear view of the skies. There is a kitchenette featuring a two burner stove, sink, coffee and electric kettle, and a mini fridge. If you’re staying for more than a couple days (or just prefer to cook your own meals), buy groceries before you arrive at the resort because they only have very few snacks/drinks available for purchase in the lobby.
Other accommodation options include: basic igloos (house 2-6, depending on the size, but only contain beds and a toilet/sink; shower facilities are located nearby), and cabins (essentially just the interior part of our Kelo-Igloo). I know a lot of people will do a couple nights in a cabin and then a couple in an igloo just to get the full experience (and not spend as much as you would if you stayed full time in an Igloo or Kelo Igloo).
Meals are served in the Aurora Restaurant, which is located in the same building as the main reception desk. The most important thing to know about the restaurant is that they have one menu per night for dinner. For example, the menu for our first dinner was Salmon Soup, Roasted Duck Breast served with Parsnips, and Cloudberries with Caramel Sauce and Vanilla Ice Cream for dessert. If you have a food allergy or other aversion to what’s on that night’s menu, they do have a few modification options, but you pretty much get what you get. I say embrace it — how often do you get to eat traditional Finnish food? Also, be aware that they don’t serve lunch, but the breakfast buffet is open until 11am.
Kakslauttanen offers numerous activity options, including snowmobiling, dog sledding, snowshoeing, and reindeer sleigh rides. Our travel agent booked us an evening Reindeer Aurora Hunt, and it’s not a hard call to say it was one of the coolest experiences I’ve ever had. You are met by your reindeer guide at the lobby and taken to the gear room to make sure you’re properly outfitted for the cold (please do not use this as your sign to not bring boots and a winter coat — you will regret it). After making sure everyone had hats, gloves, and coveralls as needed, we were given a quick safety briefing and then taken to meet the reindeer. Each duo is assigned to your own sleigh, so be aware that if there are an odd number in your group, someone is likely going to have to ride with a stranger.
The first 20 or so minutes of the ride is through the snow-covered woods. The sky was SO clear, and our guide told us we were right under the Milky Way. I’ve never seen so many stars, or ones shining as brightly (thanks, light pollution). You make a stop for maybe 10-15 minutes at a yurt in the woods that has a fire and hot berry juice to warm you up. However when we arrived, the Aurora was dancing in the sky, so we forewent warming up to try and get some good photos.
We got really lucky and were able to see the Aurora several times that night. It’s never guaranteed because the weather conditions have to be right, but I can confirm that it is insane to see. After we finished with our reindeer friends, we went back to our igloo and settled in for the night. Fortunately or unfortunately, jet lag had both Husband and I struggling to sleep. But that worked out to our advantage as the Aurora started dancing again in the wee hours of the morning, and we were able to toss on our coats over our pajamas and catch some incredible images. According to our reindeer guide, the lights that night were “Level 1,” meaning that they were to lowest strength. If this is the Level 1, I can only imagine what it looks like when you witness to strongest Level 5 lights. Maybe one day I’ll be able to experience that too.
The next morning, we headed back to the airport and down to Helsinki. For years I have been angling to get to a European Christmas Market. I actually had a whole trip planned back in 2020, but we all know how that went. So needless to say, I was PUMPED when I learned that there was a Christmas Market in Helsinki. It was really the only thing I wanted to see and do (although there is a lot more to do in Helsinki, I promise).
Set up in Senate Square, the Tuomaan Markkinat boasts rows and rows of stalls with craft vendors, hot gloggi (mulled wine), baked goods, and artisan demonstrations. There’s even a carousel for the kiddos. Our first night in Helsinki we wandered through the market and got the lay of the land.
Senate Square is also home to the Helsinki Cathedral, which stands sentinel atop the hill on the market’s north side. After meandering through the market for a while, Husband and I decided to go into the Cathedral to warm up a bit before walking back to the hotel. Turns out, we choose a great time to visit because there was a boy choir rehearsing their Christmas Concert. As a singer myself, I spent many years doing exactly what those boys were doing, and it was a delightful surprise to be able to sit and listen to some beautiful music.
Helsinki Day 2 started off with us missing the hotel breakfast. Not to worry, though. I had the foresight to research some delicious bakeries before we arrived in Finland. One of the most lauded of these bakeries is housed within the St. George Hotel. I ordered an almond croissant and a cappuccino (my go-to European bakery order), and Husband ordered a sandwich and hot chocolate. European pastries and cappuccino’s are always superior, and these were no exception. And Husband said the hot chocolate was probably the best he’s ever had.
After a fortifying breakfast, we decided to hop on the ferry over to Suomenlinna Fortress, which sits on a small archipelago in the Gulf of Finland. The ferry ride is about 15 minutes from Market Square (not to be confused with Senate Square where the Christmas Market is), and is included in the Helsinki Card, if you decide to purchase that. The Helsinki Card provides free transit within the city for 24 hours and free or discounted entry to a bunch of top attractions.
Suomenlinna has housed Swedish, Russian, and Finnish Military throughout its 200 year existence. Now, Suomenlinna is home to about 800 residents, ranging from military personnel to artists to sanitation workers. There are multiple museums, guided tours, and exhibits available to see, as well as several cafes, restaurants, and even a brewery. We basically just wandered around and took in the scenery without a discernible plan, but there is a denoted path of the archipelago’s “highlights” if you want something more ordered.
The rest of our time in Helsinki was largely made up of exploring various shops and restaurants, including an exciting trip to a Finnish drug store to get me some cold medicine. We had dinner one night at brick-oven pizza restaurant Capperi. The pizza could’ve been cooked a little longer, but Husband got a pistachio ice cream that he raved about. The next night we opted for a quick bite at Social Burgerjoint, an up and coming burger chain. Social is located in one of Helsinki’s many shopping malls, which are far more prevalent there than here in the US. I think a lot of it has to do with the fact that it is so cold there for so long that it’s both more pleasant and convenient to have everything (grocery stores, restaurants, box stores, etc.) all contained within one mega-complex. A bonus: the malls were decorated with really neat Christmas lights.
While our time in Finland came to an end after our stay in Helsinki, our honeymoon adventures continued. Stay tuned for a post on our 36 hour stay in Iceland, coming soon!
A Slice of Kate 
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